Piupiu, Harakeke, Flax skirt
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Te Hikoi Museum
This piupiu (skirt or waist garment) belonged to Ella Roderique. According to the donor, Kiri Roderique, her grandmother Ella may have won the piupiu at a carnival. It is also thought to have been made using traditional methods and materials by a Māori Kairaranga (Weaver). Ella Roderique was born Ella Isabella Margaret Bryce on 12 May 1907. It is made of harakeke (New Zealand flax), with mangu (black) dyed horizontal stripes and a central diamond motif made up of 24 squares. It has a thick plaited muka (fibres extracted from the harakeke leaves) waistband, with three narrower bands below this. The waistband extends into ties. Harakeke is turned into pokinikini which are dried, and naturally rolled tubes which are woven into the waistband. A piupiu is worn around the waist with the pokinikini hanging free; the word 'piupiu' also means 'to swing'. A description from the donation register notes the skirt has '3 small rows plaiting and 1 large row on top of waistband (dark)'. and that the measurements are 'length of waistband 37 3/4", length of ties 24" + 24", length of skirt 29 1/2" + w/b [waistband] 1 1/2" = 31". A drawing of the cloak was included also. Textile Conservators Rangi Te Kanawa and Tracey Wedge have noted that a lot of work went into creating this piupiu, as it is 'quite dense' and has a lot of elements. Harakeke was, and is, most commonly used for making clothing, kete (baskets) and mats. Muka was worked and plaited or woven to make fishing nets, footwear, cords and ropes, like the waistband on this piupiu.
Ngā whakamārama
Details
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Title
Piupiu, Harakeke, Flax skirt
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Maker
Unknown Kairaranga (Weaver)
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Date made
1250-1900
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Subject
Māori, Clothing and Accessories, Taoka/Taonga
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Additional information
organic, vegetal, fibre, harakeke (New Zealand flax), l 780 mm x w 940 mm waistband (including ties): 2114 mm diamond motif: h 244 mm x w 240 mm Measurements taken during 2014 workshop: l 1000 mm
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Rights
All rights reserved
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Location
170-172 Palmerston Street, Riverton, Southland
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Website
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Te Hikoi Museum
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Text adapted with permission from Te Papa and Digital NZ
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